The MGF Register Forums

ashleyfrazer wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 15, 2023 7:19 pm

Got my car out of the garage where its stored and brought it home for the first time in 3 years. Just made it to the garage for fuel (I keep a log for fuel which is why I know its 3 years) with the needle in the red.

Spent a happy afternoon washing, polishing and waxing. I need to take 6 photos to try and agree the value with the new insurance I took out.

Next week the paint chip man is due and I the auto audio engineer so we can try and modenise the cd43 radio.

Picture is favourite side complete with chips.

Thanks to Nigel for inspiring me to get the MGF back on the road in a conversation at Stoneleigh.


Ash20230415_185211.jpg

Sent from my S22 Ultra using Tapatalk

Look forward to seeing you and your car at some point this year.

Replaced the clutch slave cylinder seal - easy - which seemed in ominously good condition.
Pedal still going to the floor and staying - aagh!
So replaced the master cylinder seals, which is not difficult per se. But reconnecting the cylinder and pedal was a nightmare, eventually followed by the nightmarish frustration of solo bleeding them. For future reference does anyone know if there is an easy way to do either of these operations?

From memory (last done 2009), prefilling the master cylinder helps, and I have a spare filler cap with long length of flex tubing with an aspirating bulb to raise pressure. A few good squeezes is normally enough to push fresh fluid through the system to the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
I also have a spare brake master cylinder reservoir filling cap which works very well on solo brake bleeding. Very gentle and no excessive pressure involved.

Hi,
Well being a new TF owner I fed it some E5 and took it for a spin in the sun. Lovely!

Cheers,
Michael.

Oops! Sorry wrong MG.

As our trips are getting further and further away, I decided to install at Mrs Kaspers request to have a cruise control installed as she has issues, stretching her leg for long periods. Just in time as supply of the CC’s is running out. All new cars have it as standard so there is hardly any demand for after market.

Sadly i had to remove the K&N i57 filterkit after over 20 years of pleasant use. Learned that tours in the Alps result in a too hot engine bay, reducing the oxigen. Let’s try the ITG now.

Ghost is only to be signed of to pass it’s annual test as it failed due to a broken wheel bearing.

Well I’ve acted like a cretin! I scraped the NSF alloy on the kerb. The previous owner of 2 decades kept them perfect, I ve had it a fortnight to the DAY and screwed one up. I deserve nothing. SMH at myself.

Hi F-ers!

Well today I made some progress sorting out the rear subframe.

Getting there - excited to crack on tomorrow

Geoff

Sound deadening this week.
Haven’t done the doors as the membranes looked as if they’ve never been touched.
Not sure how to re-attach properly. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Regards,
Michael.

I've removed and refitted the headlining on my hardtop.

As is usual the thin foam layer had come adrift allowing the headlining to badly sag in the middle. With the biscuit removed from the hard top I pulled back the vinyl headlining and removed the now defunct thin foam layer. After cleaning all surfaces i then reglued the vinyl directly to the biscuit.
The clips at the back were reusable but i felt the biscuit needed some way of tightening against the hardtop to prevent it rattling. I discretely added a couple of black 10mm self tapper trim screws at the back plus a couple on the front rail to better secure it. No other materials were needed other than a can of spray glue and 4 screws

Extracted the front subframe

Chris Tideswell wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 23, 2023 6:04 pm

Extracted the front subframe

Guess that comes with a reason, anti corrosion wise or some damage. Anyway a good moment to get a new colour on your subframe, I suggest a vibrant tint, like Orange

I finished wiring up the coolant level alarm on the 135 then fitted a solenoid to the boot lock and a pushbutton release inside the car. I did both mods to the 115 not so long ago so it took less than half as long this time around.

Kasper wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 25, 2023 4:55 pm

Guess that comes with a reason, anti corrosion wise or some damage. Anyway a good moment to get a new colour on your subframe, I suggest a vibrant tint, like Orange

I originally planned to just drop the subframe to be able to extract the wishbones as I didn't want to drain the coolant system again, however when the bumper was removed and found that the radiator looked like this and needed replacing there was no reason not to carry on!

Placed the car in the garage for winter.
ROLL ON SUMMER

The radiator had to go a long, long time ago, out of the F. exchanged for a Alu one. Now Ghost has earned a season of recuperating after tours to Lake Constance, Black Forrest, Ardennen Meeting in Luxemburg, the Dutch Octagon tour and a meeting in the Peak district and in Kent. Now the TF is back on the road again (referb CVT). Just some irritating minor starting issues, bur she drives great again.

I sold my 2002 TF 115 'Blue Gnu' to a couple from the next town. I was glad to see it go to someone sensible who will look after it. Ive still got the black 135 Sunstorm which I recently rebuilt the front brakes on so will be using that now.

I had the hydragas spheres on my 97 'F' re-gassed in 2017, since when the ride quality has been exceptional. The other day, whilst negotiating a "Berlin Cushion" speed bump, the front of the car grounded - I think it was the flexible air deflector that touched. Anyway today I thought I'd check the ride height. It was, reset at 368mm in March 2022, but had settled to 350mm. The suspension is fine, and properly compliant.

There appears to be no leaks anywhere and the car was easily raised back up to the proper level using my little grease-gun style pump, although I had to replace both '0' rings on the piston first (they take quite a hammering in use)

Hopefully all is well. It does look a bit like an SUV at 368mm but that's normal. I'd rather it was like that than bottoming on the road surface.

Sunny & dry down here in Rekkersland so I will give it an outing later today.

Started on fitting the Mike Satur long pivot rod conversion kit.

Nothing exotic, but I have just replaced both rear number plate light bulbs for festoon LEDs. One of the incandescent bulbs had gone. Unsurpringly, after 27 years the phillips screws were rusted away so the heads had to be drilled off. Easy enough done if you prise the fitting out of the rear bumper. There was enough "meat" in the stumps of the screws to unscrew the remains with some thin nosed pliers, fortunately.