I'll have a look at that Charles - but it may need to wait a while until I've fired up the Project Shed electrical system
Key Fob Programming
I've just spent a happy 10 minutes playing with the key programmer - and I am happy to report that (1) it works, and (2) the tokens don't decrement as they're apparently supposed to. Despite programming the keys twice, I've still the same 100 tokens I started with!
Let's start from the beginning - you've just got yourself a nice new key fob (or in my case, refurbished the old spare one). First, you'll probably want to replace its battery - its a button battery, code CR2032:
- Replacement battery, CR2032
These are available from almost everywhere these days - this particular one came from the local chemist
The next step is to split open the case. I found the end of a steel rule was perfect, and there is a small gap you can insert it into where the fob attaches to your keyring:
- Split open the case
This will expose the printed circuit board (PCB) and the battery carrier, which you can clearly see here:
- Opened case
If you look at the PCB, you should be able to identify the type of fob you've got. Here, you can see it's my car's original 3TXA (there are many types, and if you are interested in reading more, read
here). See "3TXA" printed on the PCB, bottom right of the battery carrier?
- 3TXA PCB
You may wish to replace the rubber bottons - this is easily done by popping out the PCB, turning it over, and exposing the buttons, as shown here (new cases and buttons are available as kits on a certain well-known auction site):
- Rubber buttons
Putting the PCB back in place, remove the old battery. Instructions say to depress both buttons to discharge the circuit (I didn't bother, the battery in this fob was the original Panasonic, and was deader than the Parrot in that well known Monte Python sketch). Slip the new battery in place:
- New battery replacement
Now the case can be closed back up, job done
I include this picture showing the location of the identifier for the fob - a Lucas 3TXA. You can also have 3TXB, 3TXC and 17TN...
- 3TXA fob case
This is worth noting, as later (post 1998 cars) will need a 17TN PCB to maintain the automatic deactivation of the immobiliser when the key is in the ignition - and also noting that older PCBs (or newer) can be found in any key fob case... buyers beware! That said, any Lucas key fob will operate the basic alarm/immobiliser on/off functions on any MGF/TF fitted with the Lucas 5AS
So, now you'll be wanting to programme the key into the car's ECUs. Here's Paul's handy switched cable (it's brilliant BTW
):
- 5AS programmer cable
To programme your key fobs, you'll need all the fobs you intend to use (as I discovered, if you programme just the one, you'll loose the use of any previous functional key fobs - but conveniently, you can programme up to four separate fobs, which is nice
):
- Get ALL your key fobs handy, and ready to go
Now, turn on the ignition, and go through the 'usual' sequence as previously noted
First, selecting "Remote functions":
- Remote functions mode
Now the unit will identify the Alarm ECU type - in my case, obviously, it's a Lucas 5AS:
- Identify ECU type: Lucas 5AS
Now we want "Special functions":
- Select "Special functions"
Now, "Program Remote":
- Select "Program Remote"
The unit will then tell you how many "Tokens you have remaining" - 100 as it happens:
- Tokens remaining: 100
Somewhat alarmingly (no pun intended), it will then say you'll loose a token for programming in your key
- Warning that you'll use one token for programming your remote fob...
Proceed anyway, and press return. You will now need to have all your functioning key fobs handy - both new and old. Press either the lock or unlock buttons eight times according to the supplied manual, but in reality you keep pressing until the horn "beeps" to tell you that the fob has been accepted by the system. You then straight after that, repeat again with all the other fobs (apparently a maximum of 4, according to the manual - I haven't tested that today!). You then press "enter" when you've completed the procedure.
The next screen will tell you how many tokens you have left:
- Remaining tokens: 100
And, hurrah! You've still got the same number of tokens you started with!
I did this twice, as I wasn't sure whether you had to programme all the fobs with this equipment at the same time, but as it happens you do, and yes, I've still got the same 100 tokens that I started with. Brilliant
So now I've got a big grin, because I've now reactivated my spare key, which I've not been able to use since a garage lost my original main key and had to programme a fresh one into the system - and because you need both keys when you programming it, and the garage didn't have my spare (thank goodness?) - the remote fob lost its functionality.
So, brilliant. I've reset my EKA and programmed a fresh key
I'll be going through the same process for Project Shed, so for me, it's been a good purchase
