The MGF Register Forums

Looking forward to your findings

My T300 has been shipped yesterday with DHL after some email discussions about the version and tax/customs items.
Now they ship the version 10.?? or whatever in a black housing. Rob's looks black coloured aswell.
Seller asked what value should been written to the commercial invoice. She suggested 25USD but after some former .... errrm.... "not so funny" experiance with German customs I asked for a true invoice.
This will finally add only 20 EURO German VAT, cause the total shipment is below the max customs free value of 200 EUR for importing electronic devices from CN to DE.
Now waiting with spot on the DHL tracking.

In case someone likes to follow, I'd recommend using a similar platform that keeps the money locked until you as receiver confirm the proper receipt of the goods.

I'm not sure that the later versions add much in terms of MG Rover functionality - but I gather it is fully functional with MEMS1.9/2J/3 - and will encode both Lucas and Pektron key fobs

Why oh why is time always so short? Really want to see what else this little unit can do!

Well I have been thinking about one of these for ages but had not seen much on the way of advice on their effectiveness. I will order one this week and look forward to trying out your problem solving ideas as they appear!

Mine arrived this morning after the second attempt from DHL. Not been at home on monday though.
Just took the device out of the box, went to the F and plugged in the OBDII cable. After trying to find anything useful on the instruction pdf CD.... with no success
(Stated lead numbers don't suit to the markings on the cables) ... LOL
Device started working as described in some manual. Then put ignition on, scroll through the menue to Rover > EMS (mems) > fault codes and find some unusual. Faults cleared and then did some other trials through the given menue choices (live data etc.) with no more success.
Anyway, the only thing that seams to work at the MEMS1.9 is reading the fault codes and clear the fault codes.

Up now to make the cable for the 5AS connection

Rob ? any news ?
Me did the cable for 5AS connection yesterday.
I can prove, the linkage table from this thread (thanks ORG Forum) is correct.
But oh dear, soldering cables was much easier 10 years ago. Had to use a huge magnifying lens

Anyway, the question is, is this tool worth the effort and price for MEMS 1.6 /1.9/2.0 owners and 5AS system
I don't know. I wanted to have one
T300 (AD100) can handle what they advert for: Key Programmer
Reading MEMS fault codes and clearing them is an additional feature. Live data are not available with our old Rover specific MEMS code up to MY2000 or Trophy.

So we have
MGF MEMS up to MEMS2:
- read faults
- clear faults
- read ECU version

MGF 5AS
- read EKA
- change EKA
- adapt new Alarm blipper ... (not tried yet, but the count of blipper adaptions seams to be limited to 100 times access, they call it *Token*)
The number of Token is shown on start up of the T300 system (Version 9.99).
On entering the blipper adaption menu, you get asked and said that the numbers of Token gets reduced by one.

Ahh,
- and a device self test with using Adapter # ADC145

I didn't see any option by now to adapt a MEMS ECU to a 5AS system.

In case you want one, all you need is:
- AD100 T300 key programmer (V9.99 seams to be the black case) with
- ADC110 OBDII cable
- ADC145 Adapter for self test
and the OBDII to 5AS cable from Ebay or DIY (4 wires)

All the other stuff can be droped if you don't own any of the cars that need one of the special cables/adapters. I opened all the adapters and took pictures. Quite impressive are the Chrysler138/139 types. Inside a double sided PCB with SMT and THT components.
Will upload the pics later.
Also I'l see waht it does wit my 2008 Audi A3 (8PA)

Hi Dieter,

Brilliant timing, I've just come in having just been outside to have a play to find your post!

Picking up from before, I thought that I'd have a look at the live data screen (now that the battery has been recharged):
As has been commented elsewhere, MEMS1.9 seems not to be compatible with Live mode on this reader - the engine, if running, will either stall or will stutter, and the connection is lost. The live screen data appears to be a collection of random numbers... Not sure whether this is a 'feature' of the equipment, or a 'feature' of my car... will be interesting to hear what you find Dieter, but from other forums, the Live data mode does work with MEMS2J (VVC).
A pitty, but not the main reason for buying this unit for me.

So with the cable I bought off ebay from Paul (which has a very nice little switch to enable you to switch from MEMS to 5AS interogation), I decided to have a look at the remote functions. As you say Dieter, this is the device's primary function (odd then, that it doesn't come with this cable as standard...?):
You then enter the vehicle being interogated (the list on v9.99 firmware is pretty comprehensive across the MG Rover range, and includes TF with the Pektron SCU, and good news for me, the MG ZT! ):
Then you can select from Remote functions or EKA:
I thought I'd start with the EKA. Irritatingly, my EKA has never worked. I thought it was because it had the well documented problem of needing to add 1 to the code, but when I did that, it still didn't work. Fortunately, I've never been in a situation where needing to have the EKA has been that critical!

So I read the EKA code (I've since changed it, so this won't be of use to anyone!):
So I compared this number to the number in my car's manual. To my utter surprise the numbers were right - but just not in the order written on the security information leaflet. Sheesh! Obviously mine was completed by a dyslexic Brummie on the day after the night before...

So next, I thought I'd reprogramme the EKA - to do this, enter in through the Special functions:
Then select "Write EKA":
I then entered a new EKA. Being a suspicious sort, I then went back through the read process to confirm that the code I'd entered had indeed been accepted by the 5AS. I've not yet checked to see whether the door lock can now disable the immobiliser - may try that later after the kids are asleep

The remaining section I've not yet entered is the remote programmer:
I have a spare remote, so I'll give that a whirl once I've changed its battery. It's the car's original spare - and if it doesn't deactivate the immobiliser, I'll programme it back in

Conclusions so far?

In most part, it does what it says on the tin. The unit is pretty robust, and works in a very 1990's technology kind of way - scrolling through menus on an illuminated dot-matrix liquid crystal display. Given the vintage of our vehicles, that feels "right" somehow The lack of live information from the connection to MEMS1.9 is disappointing, but it does appear to work with MEMS2J, so others may find this more useful. For me, this is not an absolute deal breaker.
It appears to read fault codes perfectly satisfactorily, and will re-set and clear the codes.
It will also read and reset the EKA.
I've not tried yet, but I suspect that re-programming additional fobs will pose no problems - and it will programme all MG Rover vehicle codes, including the Rover 75 and MG ZT.
I believe it will reprogramme the ECU. I may look at this in more detail on Project Shed.

For me, is it worth the money? I think so, yes, as I bought it in large part knowing that I have this project car that has thrown up more than its fair share of problems, and having a fault code reader could be very useful - as indeed would the key fob programmer! And if it can programme different 5AS to a MEMS, then it'll be brilliant.

For the average MGF owner? Probably less clear cut if I am honest. Depends whether you are like me or Dieter - if you "just have to have one" then yes. If not, probably not. It costs way more than the OBD2 readers for later cars, and its functionality rather more limited (key coding aside).

I mentioned this equipment at the last MGF Register committee meeting: should the club buy one? The committee simply wasn't sure. I think that there is a case for the Register to buy one for member use (at shows) - but what do you guys think?

Cheers. Great write up
Thanks Rob.

Decisions for the club should be taken when the Token stuff is resolved.
It can't be that fobs get programmed FOC when the device shuts down after 100 attempts of fob adaptions .
From principals it could get another charity action and raising cash though.

Hi Rob,
Well I pressed the order button, paid the money and now wait.
In the mean time could you please "So with the cable I bought off ebay from Paul (which has a very nice little switch to enable you to switch from MEMS to 5AS interogation)" let me have Paul's E bay site to order the cable. Electrical wiring is not my fortie and my son-law does not have the time for my projects any more he is to busy with his own!
For the first time the Australian dollar is worth more than the US$, making this a bit of a bargain so as Rob states " For the average MGF owner? Probably less clear cut if I am honest. Depends whether you are like me or Dieter - if you "just have to have one" " I am justifying that way!

Dieter K wrote:Cheers. Great write up

Thanks Dieter

Dieter K wrote:Decisions for the club should be taken when the Token stuff is resolved.
It can't be that fobs get programmed FOC when the device shuts down after 100 attempts of fob adaptions .
From principals it could get another charity action and raising cash though.

I haven't worked out what the token system means - I haven't mentioned it in the above write up, and haven't (yet) programmed any fobs... But if the tokens were to decrement every time it was used, that would be a royal pain in the proverbial.

Andrew Regens wrote:Hi Rob,
Well I pressed the order button, paid the money and now wait.
In the mean time could you please "So with the cable I bought off ebay from Paul (which has a very nice little switch to enable you to switch from MEMS to 5AS interogation)" let me have Paul's E bay site to order the cable. Electrical wiring is not my fortie and my son-law does not have the time for my projects any more he is to busy with his own!
For the first time the Australian dollar is worth more than the US$, making this a bit of a bargain so as Rob states " For the average MGF owner? Probably less clear cut if I am honest. Depends whether you are like me or Dieter - if you "just have to have one" " I am justifying that way!

Sorry Andrew! Paul is Technozen on .org, and runs this ebay sale:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-Rover-5AS- ... 256ff5c0b5

He mailed me to ask whether I wanted the switch adding, which I very gratefully accepted (practically took his arm off actually! ). Makes MEMS and 5AS interrogation very convenient

'If' you were planning to unplug the SRS connection to a seat belt pretensioner and/or the rotary coupler and then to read the error code in a MEMS1.9 system and 'if' it could discriminate between the two, I would feel compelled to buy one too! (hint)

I'll have a look at that Charles - but it may need to wait a while until I've fired up the Project Shed electrical system

Key Fob Programming

I've just spent a happy 10 minutes playing with the key programmer - and I am happy to report that (1) it works, and (2) the tokens don't decrement as they're apparently supposed to. Despite programming the keys twice, I've still the same 100 tokens I started with!

Let's start from the beginning - you've just got yourself a nice new key fob (or in my case, refurbished the old spare one). First, you'll probably want to replace its battery - its a button battery, code CR2032:
These are available from almost everywhere these days - this particular one came from the local chemist
The next step is to split open the case. I found the end of a steel rule was perfect, and there is a small gap you can insert it into where the fob attaches to your keyring:
This will expose the printed circuit board (PCB) and the battery carrier, which you can clearly see here:
If you look at the PCB, you should be able to identify the type of fob you've got. Here, you can see it's my car's original 3TXA (there are many types, and if you are interested in reading more, read here). See "3TXA" printed on the PCB, bottom right of the battery carrier?
You may wish to replace the rubber bottons - this is easily done by popping out the PCB, turning it over, and exposing the buttons, as shown here (new cases and buttons are available as kits on a certain well-known auction site):
Putting the PCB back in place, remove the old battery. Instructions say to depress both buttons to discharge the circuit (I didn't bother, the battery in this fob was the original Panasonic, and was deader than the Parrot in that well known Monte Python sketch). Slip the new battery in place:
Now the case can be closed back up, job done I include this picture showing the location of the identifier for the fob - a Lucas 3TXA. You can also have 3TXB, 3TXC and 17TN...
This is worth noting, as later (post 1998 cars) will need a 17TN PCB to maintain the automatic deactivation of the immobiliser when the key is in the ignition - and also noting that older PCBs (or newer) can be found in any key fob case... buyers beware! That said, any Lucas key fob will operate the basic alarm/immobiliser on/off functions on any MGF/TF fitted with the Lucas 5AS

So, now you'll be wanting to programme the key into the car's ECUs. Here's Paul's handy switched cable (it's brilliant BTW ):
To programme your key fobs, you'll need all the fobs you intend to use (as I discovered, if you programme just the one, you'll loose the use of any previous functional key fobs - but conveniently, you can programme up to four separate fobs, which is nice ):
Now, turn on the ignition, and go through the 'usual' sequence as previously noted First, selecting "Remote functions":
Now the unit will identify the Alarm ECU type - in my case, obviously, it's a Lucas 5AS:
Now we want "Special functions":
Now, "Program Remote":
The unit will then tell you how many "Tokens you have remaining" - 100 as it happens:
Somewhat alarmingly (no pun intended), it will then say you'll loose a token for programming in your key
Proceed anyway, and press return. You will now need to have all your functioning key fobs handy - both new and old. Press either the lock or unlock buttons eight times according to the supplied manual, but in reality you keep pressing until the horn "beeps" to tell you that the fob has been accepted by the system. You then straight after that, repeat again with all the other fobs (apparently a maximum of 4, according to the manual - I haven't tested that today!). You then press "enter" when you've completed the procedure.

The next screen will tell you how many tokens you have left:
And, hurrah! You've still got the same number of tokens you started with!

I did this twice, as I wasn't sure whether you had to programme all the fobs with this equipment at the same time, but as it happens you do, and yes, I've still got the same 100 tokens that I started with. Brilliant

So now I've got a big grin, because I've now reactivated my spare key, which I've not been able to use since a garage lost my original main key and had to programme a fresh one into the system - and because you need both keys when you programming it, and the garage didn't have my spare (thank goodness?) - the remote fob lost its functionality.

So, brilliant. I've reset my EKA and programmed a fresh key I'll be going through the same process for Project Shed, so for me, it's been a good purchase

Great news with the Token.

Makes the decision about a club T300 device much easier.

Charless,
I'll go for the mentioned fault code investigation in next week.
Have daubts this will work for SRS faults, cause the SRS connection pin (13?) at the MGF 'ODB-plug' is different to the MEMS pin (7). ABS faults may be shown, though.
Will start a new thread then or take contact by PN to you.

If that's the case with the tokens, I can share the device within our register. Paul is organising a cable with a switch for me so should have it all within the next two weeks..................

Thanks Rob, for the impressive report. The fob question coming up quite regularly on various occasions, I would also be quite interested in the device. A T4 is available locally, but weekends only, and Dieter is a bit far away ...

If you wish, we could give the MEMS live data functionality a test when I deliver the headlamps, as you know Lilibet is a MEMS2J VVC.

Mykel

Thanks guys - I'm still feeling rather happy with myself following a productive few minutes this morning! I've also done a bit of work on Project Shed (and updated the software on my iPod Touch)... so not a bad day at all Not often I get such a long run on my little projects these days

Mykel, yes, let's do that when you get here. Which weekend was it again? Drop me an email

Thanks Rod and Dieter for your comments on the T300. I still may go the Blackbox Solution route given where I live, but at least there is a viable alternative in the T300.

I'd imagine that the Blackbox will likely provide more "Live Data" information for your MEMS1.9 equipped MGF - and since this can be useful to aid in diagnosis (or indeed, with tuning developments ), then I think you're entirely justified in going down that route

When you get one, I'd love to see how it operates to compare with the T300

Well the T300 has arrived just waiting for Paul's cable, this was sent today so another week. I might try the other cars in my fleet, daughters Honda, wife's Peugeot , the golf cart, Nissan Maxama.

Charless wrote:'If' you were planning to unplug the SRS connection to a seat belt pretensioner and/or the rotary coupler and then to read the error code in a MEMS1.9 system and 'if' it could discriminate between the two, I would feel compelled to buy one too! (hint)

Finally I took contact to Paul from the org forum.
He unfortunately confirmed the daubts. T300 has no software to read the SRS ECU.
So the pin 13 at the MGF /TF OBD-connector will not be understood even if switched over to pin 7.

So you can save your money for something different

Thanks for the information there Dieter - a bit of a shame, but not a disaster really.

Found this manual on the internet, that shows the programming steps rather nicely for all MG Rover vehicles:

http://roy.duitman.nl/Rover_Manual.pdf