The MGF and TF share many common characteristics. Unsurprising as the TF is effectively an upgraded MGF. The principal mechanical differences are in the suspension system which were changed from the F’s hydragas system to a more standard steel spring system. This was done as the hydragas spheres were no longer being manufactured by Dunlop making the MGF the last car to use this system.
The original MGF was first designed by MGA developments and then taken in house to complete by Rover Group. Once MG broke away from the parent BMW group the company was rebranded as MG Rover and top designer Peter Stevens was brought in to spruce up the range including the MGF.
You can find the model progress on this site here: MGF/TF MODELS
Basically, the main editions were:- from 1995 the MGF 1.8l and MGF VVC 1.8l then from 2002 the MGTF 115 1.6l, MGTF 135 1.8l, MGTF 160 1.8l, MGTF Stepspeed 1.8l and the later NAC MGTF 135 1.8l from 2008 finishing production altogether in 2010. There were plenty of special and limited editions along the way as well.
Essentially though there are similar things to look out for in both models so let us wade in with a basic and hopefully fairly simple buyers guide:-
ENGINES
All variants use the Rover K series engine including the later NAC models, although it was rebranded as the N series with gasket/dowel modifications.
The rear engine configuration means that there is a long run under the car with the radiator at the front, this can present plenty of opportunities for leaks so check the pipes underneath well. Check the water level too – if it is low there could be a leak problem. This is important as low water will quickly cause overheating and that means a potential head gasket failure. The engine has plastic dowels and these can soften when they get too hot causing the head to shift and the gasket to leak.
Also check the radiator at the front – they do deteriorate and it is very difficult to see. They are readily available to replace if yours is looking worn.
Look out for thick goopy “mayonnaise” like deposits in the water tank and on the dipstick. This could indicate a failed gasket but in a car that hasn’t moved much could be a result of condensation. Probably best to avoid the car if you find it or you could be buying a potential expensive problem.
Overheating and steam at the back can also be caused by something as simple as a failed water pressure cap – this is not uncommon and is a first port of call should you get issues.
Check cambelts and alternator belts behind the rear offside wheel. They are pretty exposed down here and can be damaged – if the cambelt slips you can say goodbye to the engine as the valves will plough into the pistons.
GEARBOX/TRANSMISSION
Pretty much indestructible. The F and TF use the Rover PG1 gearbox as did most other Rover/BL products since the Montego.
Be wary of the Stepspeed though. It uses a CVT gearbox which can be delicate particularly if the wrong CVT oil has been used in it. Check it carefully if you are looking at an automatic car.
The RUST WORM
Generally the bodywork is pretty good however the cars are getting old now and usual rust problems are becoming apparent.
Be particularly aware of the two subframes and check the mounting blocks which can rust badly. They are box sections so look out for rusting appearing from the inside. Front wishbones are prone to rust as they are hollow – check the underneath for rust holes.
Check the rear of the sills – again they are hollow and water drains through them – the drain holes become blocked and water can sit in them for ages. The result is rust appearing from the inside in the form of holes on the outside! This will be an MOT failure particularly prevalent at the back.
The side air intakes can attract stone chips and you often find pitting around them, a relatively easy rub down and respray though sorts it out.
LEAKS
Most MGFs and TFs do leak to some extent. Most owners simply accept this and put up with it but you can make adjustments. They usually leak at the front of the doors and finessing the window alignment can help as can putting a bit of plastic fish tank tubing down the front seal to “beef it up” – check to see if that has already been done.
It’s not too much to worry about but can be annoying – but to keep a hood cover on if its not in use to prevent any water ingress.
The door seals can be replaced which might help as well.
The heater box on earlier (pre 2003) cars can present a leaking problem but these can be repaired.
So, check the footwells and carpets for dampness and if you can look underneath the carpet to see if there is much rust damage to the floor.
But don’t be totally put off as it is probably the most common issue with these cars.
The boot can leak too – usually found to be the seals around the rear light clusters, again these can be replaced and are sometimes seen bodged with sealant.
INSIDE THE COCKPIT
Cars came with a wide variety of interior styles but basically the seats were either leather or fabric. Both can wear, particularly on the driver’s side bolster where you throw yourself into the driver’s seat rubbing the bolster every time. Trimmers can usually sort out any major issues, perhaps a little easier with the leather trim. You might find the seat has sagged which generally means the wire springs underneath have snapped. They can be replaced though. Replacement seats are fairly easy to find if it really is that bad.
The plastics are generally OK on the dash but the binnacle mounts usually become brittle and break off leaving a wobbly binnacle behind which can be rattly and annoying. All is not lost as there is a simple after-market replacement from Paul Jakobi that you can fit from the top. If you use an OEM replacement you have to take the entire dashboard off – a pain!
Most items are shared parts with other Rover models so any replacements shouldn’t be too hard to find.
Check the hood. They are generally pretty good but look at the rear window if it is plastic – they become brittle with age and on that cold morning will no doubt split when you put the hood down. Replacement panels are easy to find and whole hoods can be fitted for around £500-£600 with glass heated screens. The wiring for the heated screen is fitted in all cars so if you replace the plastic one then it is just a simple plug in and fit the switch the other end. The hood can jam half way when lowering. This is not much of a problem – it is caused by the elastic straps between the ribs losing elasticity and not pulling the second rib back enough when lowering – to clear it just flick the rib with your thumb when lowering or replace the straps.
SUSPENSION
The MGF is the more complicated. It has Alex Moulton’s hydragas system as found in cars such as the Allegro and Mini. It is a great system and properly maintained gives an excellent ride. However the hydragas dsiplacers have not been manufactured since 2000. This causes an issue as their life seems to be about 15 years before you need to do something. Problematic suspension is easily identified as soon as you drive the car – it will be rock hard and everything on your body will wobble!
If the car looks too low it will need attention. If it’s not too bad then a “pump up” with hydragas fluid might fix it. However too many pump ups means that nitrogen has leaked or dispersed from the upper chamber. All is not lost as that can be fixed by “re-gassing”. There are specialists around who can do this for you. Sometimes the unit will fail completely and split in which case you need to source a replacement. This will be a second-hand unit these days as virtually all “new” ones are gone. If you can get a good unit that has been re-gassed then that is the way to go – the specialists will have some for sale.
Look out for green fluid leaking down the shock absorbers – a sure sign you’ve got an issue and you probably don’t want to buy one with that problem.
The TF is a steel sprung system and you don’t have all those fluid issues but the ride is not quite so good. A soft suspension kit was fitted to some cars to make it easier for bad backs and all the NAC cars were fitted with it although you could opt for “sports suspension” if you wanted that hard ride so if your Chinese TF seems a bit firm then that is probably the reason.
All TFs and most of the Fs (but not all) have Electric Power-assisted steering. Sometimes this makes the car pull to the left. An adjustment can fix this. Sometimes owners disconnected this to give the car more “feel”. If the one you are trying doesn’t feel right then check it is wired up properly!
Brakes tend to be quite good with 240mm discs although the 160 versions had larger 304mm discs and four-pot calipers. You often find this upgraded on other lower spec cars but don’t worry if it hasn’t been done – the brakes work fine for normal usage. Parts are readily available and are not expensive. If you hear a grinding noise from the brakes it could be the pads are low and the noise is a warning.
OTHER STUFF
Windscreen wiper motors can fail without warning and you can find yourself not able to see where you are going! Replacements are available. If the washer jets don’t work it could be because you are viewing the car on a cold day. There is no engine in the front to warm the pipes up! A hot water bottle can help defrost them!
The tyres on the various models can change. So if you find yourself with different sizes at the front and back then don’t worry that is intentional.
Tyres are actually very important to the cars safety and if you can make sure they are approved makes – Good Year F1s (original MGF spec but not available today) – Toyo Proxes T1-R or Falken Ziex ZE914s are mostly used. Never mix makes as you will find the handling goes completely to pot and avoid cheap tyres altogether, it’s not worth being a bit tight in this area!
Exhausts only have a short run from the manifold to the cat so corrosion is not too great an issue but it is slung low under the car at the rear. The back box is easily visible to check and the cat hides just behind it. OEM exhausts do rust but most have been replaced with stainless steel aftermarket items of which there are a wide range – the cat bolts can fuse wih rust and be a devil to remove. The heat shield on top of the exhuast can perish as well and usually rattle when they do – some discard them altogether. Not too much of a problem unless you are using it a lot or thrashing it to make it really hot – they can be replaced.
Headlamps are not that bright in the first placce but can weather and de-silver making them either dimmer to the point of an MOT failure. Replacements are available but are expensive or you can try re-silvering the reflective part. The F and TF have different style headlights, the F has the worst problem.
OVERALL
Overall the F and TF are great little British sports cars. The TF is (at the moment) the last British mass-produced roadster and as such has a certain appeal.
Despite that prices are still fairly low and great condition low-mileage ones of both types can be found for £4000 – £8000. There is a small premium for some Special and limited editions. Ordinary usable cars can be found for £1500 to £4000 and anything under £1000 is likely to need a bit of effort. Having said that bargains can be found so you never know!
They are a lot of fun and can still be used as daily drivers although most are not these days. They make a great play car particularly with the top down in the summer and shouldn’t cost you much money either.
Join the MG Car Club and MGF Register and you’ll find plenty of tings to do with them and people to help out if you do get probems.